n2o HELP!!

[Crazzy_Al]

Ok, it seems that the farther I get into this the more I need to operate an n2o system safely and effectively. Here is a list of what I THINK I need, please let me know if I am missing anything or if you recommend anything else. If you recommend something else, please provide a link to where I might be able to find or aquire that item.


I plan on spraying 100-125 shot. I'm figuring I'll be pushing 425-450rwhp. (I don't care if anyone knows my setup)


NX Nitrous kit (Dry)
NOS Purge and Bottle Warmer
Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge 0-100psi (Mechanical)
Autometer Fuel Pressure Isolatro to mount the gauge inside the car
Autometer Oil Pressure Gauge 0-100psi (Mechanical)
Autometer Nitrous Pressure Gauge 0-1600psi (Mechanical)
Autometer 3-pod Gauge A-Pillar
MSD RPM Window Switch
MSD RPM On/Off Pills

MSD Tach Adapter??? What does this do and why do I need it?

Should I get a BAP? Should I upgrade my injectors?


Lastly, how many (if any) of these items would I NOT need if I am getting a tune by Lidio @ Alternative?



***Thanks in advance guys. As previously stated I am new to performance mods and their installs and operation. Please excuse the ignorance for just a bit longer.***

Big mike, where you at on this one. I need your help brotha!! :cheers:

[Casper302]

Hmm dont you need a tach adapter if you plan on using a after market tach? FUck it Al spay it with a 400 wet shot, fuck dry.

[Crazzy_Al]

Hmm dont you need a tach adapter if you plan on using a after market tach? No idea, but I will be running my stock tach. FUck it Al spay it with a 400 wet shot, fuck dry.

400hp shot? Am I reading that right? Wet or not, I see a big ass BOOM with that much spray. :lol:

[Casper302]

400hp shot? Am I reading that right? Wet or not, I see a big ass BOOM with that much spray. :lol:


Lol, try searching online at site's like www.hardcore50.com , www.nmraracing.com and so on, hell even try www.turbomustangs.com or www.mustangworld.com.

[Crazzy_Al]

Lol, try searching online at site's like www.hardcore50.com , www.nmraracing.com and so on, hell even try www.turbomustangs.com or www.mustangworld.com.

For what? An explanation of the tach adapter? I'm a member over at TM.com...I haven't been there in a long ass time though...

[Strtracer]

400hp shot? Am I reading that right? Wet or not, I see a big ass BOOM with that much spray. :lol:

No boom, just rattle, poof, clank.

Ive already weighed in on this with you. The gauges are not neccessary, but you want them. I still would go electric on the Fuel pressure, mounting the mechanical with isolator on the pillar is going to be a pita. Thats the reason Autometer came out with the electric gauge.

You have to buy the tach adapter to signal the window switch, and any other rpm related components you may add.(You NEED a shift lite, your factory tach is not accurate, and you dont have the time to be looking at your tach and the road)

I recommended the Mastermind because it does so much more than a window switch, and you can change things from the drivers seat.

Thought you were getting a wet kit?

Purge is not needed on the street. Waste of Nitrous, but we have talked about this too.

Call Lidio and ask him, dont let someone else speak for him. He will tell you exactly what he can do for you, and will tell you what you car can and cannot handle whether he feels you need bigger injectors with the dry kit, and if you should get a BAP(I'm assuming you mean Barametric sensor??)

With a proper wet or dry kit, I see no reason that the car should have to be tuned, but Lidio is known for tweaking safe extra horsepower out of Mod motors.

Nitrous is the best horsepower per dollar modification you can make. Quit being cheap, a quick car costs money.If You keep trying to go cheap, its gonna come back and bite you in the ass. Spend the money right the first time, and you won't have to redo it later.

[Crazzy_Al]

No boom, just rattle, poof, clank.

Ive already weighed in on this with you. The gauges are not neccessary, but you want them. I still would go electric on the Fuel pressure, mounting the mechanical with isolator on the pillar is going to be a pita. Thats the reason Autometer came out with the electric gauge. I might just go the ELEC route, I just heard that the MECH gauges are more accurate...I don't know.

You have to buy the tach adapter to signal the window switch, and any other rpm related components you may add.(You NEED a shift lite, your factory tach is not accurate, and you dont have the time to be looking at your tach and the road) Definitely get a shift light huh? I'll probably do that too.

I recommended the Mastermind because it does so much more than a window switch, and you can change things from the drivers seat. Nice, but I think that might be overkil for what I am trying to accomplish. Damn nice piece though!!

Thought you were getting a wet kit? No sir, Dry.

Purge is not needed on the street. Waste of Nitrous, but we have talked about this too. Yeah, I kinda like it though...sorry. "Ricey" I guess. :(

Call Lidio and ask him, dont let someone else speak for him. He will tell you exactly what he can do for you, and will tell you what you car can and cannot handle whether he feels you need bigger injectors with the dry kit, and if you should get a BAP(I'm assuming you mean Barametric sensor??) I called him today, he recommended everything on that list as extra safety features.

With a proper wet or dry kit, I see no reason that the car should have to be tuned, but Lidio is known for tweaking safe extra horsepower out of Mod motors. For the money, I'd still rather have him tune it and get the most SAFE hp possible...better than buying a new block.

Nitrous is the best horsepower per dollar modification you can make. Quit being cheap, a quick car costs money.If You keep trying to go cheap, its gonna come back and bite you in the ass. Spend the money right the first time, and you won't have to redo it later. That's what I'm trying to do, spend the money now, all at once, and not keep buying little shit down the road or worse yet BIG repair bills due to cutting corners upfront.

Thanks Mike.

[Forward Motion]

Ive already weighed in on this with you. The gauges are not neccessary, but you want them. I still would go electric on the Fuel pressure, mounting the mechanical with isolator on the pillar is going to be a pita. Thats the reason Autometer came out with the electric gauge.

I agree with you on that issue... what might save you a few bucks on the product is certainly gonna take its toll out on/in the install, in grief alone. whether you do it or you pay to have it done.

You have to buy the tach adapter to signal the window switch, and any other rpm related components you may add.(You NEED a shift lite, your factory tach is not accurate, and you dont have the time to be looking at your tach and the road).

You can hide the shift light in a dash vent for inconspicus aesthetics but i'm almost positive Autometer makes a shift light that takes the shift pills without using the Flavor flave tachometer. Plus exuse the pun but i think the big tachs are tacky, and there really very seldom looked at in a serious event or race. to much to look at.

Purge is not needed on the street. Waste of Nitrous, but we have talked about this too.

yea if your concerned with saving money, a purge kit is not it. Definatly good for intimidation factor tho. :naughty:

Nitrous is the best horsepower per dollar modification you can make. Quit being cheap, a quick car costs money.If You keep trying to go cheap, its gonna come back and bite you in the ass. Spend the money right the first time, and you won't have to redo it later.

Couldn't of said it better, hey you wanna work in sales don't you? lol

[Strtracer]

Believe me, your factory Tach is not accurate,never saw one that is. Since you dont really watch a tach when racing unless its right in front of your face, a simple shift lite is all thats needed. You dont have to even be looking at it, you'll know when it comes on. You set it for a few hundred RPM below where you determine to be your best shift point(due to the time it takes you to react)

Current Autometer Electric gauges are nothing like the older units or factory units that responded slow. Current technology makes them just as accurate as Mechanical, but easier to mount.

Ramped in horsepower(actually torque) is easier on the engine and tires than a max burst. Since good traction on the street is hard to come by, a ramped(progressive) controller would actually get the car out of the hole better than the simple full on. But you have to pay extra for this type of control.

If Lidio says your list has all the needed components, that tells me that he's gonna tune the motor for max safe power-N/A, and the computer will not be controlling any nitrous function, it will all be throttle switch and window switch, which is fine.

[Strtracer]

Couldn't of said it better, hey you wanna work in sales don't you? lol


My current pay and benefits package is way beyond what most would consider reasonable :bna: Thanks for the offer :D

By the way,Where is your shop.


Al, plan on buying an extra bottle or 2. They expire, so keep that in mind when shopping. but bottles can be recertified for about $15-20 apiece.

[Lisa]

Where did my post go? :confused:

Oh well I told you already before and I'm not typing that all out again, lol!

[Strtracer]

Where did my post go? :confused:

Oh well I told you already before and I'm not typing that all out again, lol!

How did that happen, I just read your post. Someone playin games??

[Lisa]

How did that happen, I just read your post. Someone playin games??

Naw, no one will play games with posts so maybe it was erased on accident...I'll have to check it out. :dunno:

[Crazzy_Al]

I wasn't really ever looking to "cut corners" or be "cheap" about the products. (hence the extra gauges and purge) But I don't want to waste money on shit that is not needed. (aside from the gauges and purge, which I like aesthetically and for the "initimidation factor") That's why I asked BEFORE I went out and bought everything. No sense in making multiple trips to the store and/or shops. For the sake of my motor (and ultimatley my bank book) I'd like to do this right the first time...that's why I come to you guys...you've done this shit before. :D I prefer to learn from other's mistake, and mot spend extra money on my own!

[Strtracer]

The Kit your buying is a wet kit, check Raj's post at MM

[Casper302]

Al, if you are gonna go with nitrous do it right, a 100-125 shot can go boom also. Good luck seem's you have you're hands full, I'd say go to carb and for got about it or how ever you say it.

[Crazzy_Al]

The Kit your buying is a wet kit, check Raj's post at MM

Yup, just saw that. I could swear little2v told me other wise...it was his kit. :confused: Oh well. :D

[Crazzy_Al]

Al, if you are gonna go with nitrous do it right, a 100-125 shot can go boom also. Good luck seem's you have you're hands full, I'd say go to carb and for got about it or how ever you say it.

Naw, should be a lot easier than what I am probably making it out to be. Carb, my DD is carbed...no thanks. :lol:

Oh,and it's "Fuhgetaboudit" :D

[99SVTAddict]

You want an electric fuel guage....otherwise if something happens you will have fuel coming into the car. Not good.

Look at Jamie, Mark (who never posts anymore), and Lisa....they all had Nitrous. They went the cost effective route and had GREAT results. No need for any of the autometer guages.

Get the Nitrous kit, heater, WOT sensor and RPM pills for added safety.

Get the Raptor shift light. $85 bucks I think and has biult in pills to set the shift point. Easy as hell to install....I did mine in 1 hour. About the size of your finger. I mounted mine on the A-pillar but you could EASILY install it inside the middle air vent for more stealth. In this pic it has the red cap on it. Bright as hell.....

[99SVTAddict]

The link is Raptor (http://www.raptorperformance.com/)

They have different colors and everything. Think NEON Al. :D
Here's a pic, in the daylight, with the cap still on:

[Crazzy_Al]

...Think NEON Al. :D

Think "Suck my ass Chuck!"

:lol:

[99SVTAddict]

Your welcome for taking the time to do all that.
Bitch.....:la:

[Crazzy_Al]

Your welcome for taking the time to do all that.
Bitch.....:la:

Oh, relax you big baby, poopy pants. I was kidding. :D :lol:

[Crazzy_Al]

By the way, THANKS.

















***whispers*** Poopy pants. :lol:

[99SVTAddict]

Sorry I was gone...I wanted to find you a nice picture you could save forever :gay:



:D

[Crazzy_Al]

:lol:

[Lisa]

Look at Jamie, Mark (who never posts anymore), and Lisa....they all had Nitrous. They went the cost effective route and had GREAT results. No need for any of the autometer guages.


I didn't go that route to "cut costs" ...I just wanted a sleeper look. :cool:

And Al - Every person is going to tell you something a little different. Just try to do the most research you can from people with experience and work from there to fit what you like the most...even the gages, heh.

Lisa :cool:

[Strtracer]

Al, go do some reading!!

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/NOSTech.html

[Crazzy_Al]

Al, go do some reading!!

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/NOSTech.html

I've looked into this quite a bit. First hand experience and advice goes a long way with me too. :D

[Lisa]

Al, go do some reading!!

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/NOSTech.html

Yes, hurry!!!!

:lol:

[99SVTAddict]

Cost "effective" route....big difference. :baby:

[99SVTAddict]

Oh, here, I found a pic of the ultimate end of Al's car....

[Crazzy_Al]

Oh, here, I found a pic of the ultimate end of Al's car....

Oh dude, not even cool. :(

[Strtracer]

Oh dude, not even cool. :(

Dont worry Al, nitrous is not flamable, so you wont get a fire like that,UNLESS, your engine gernades and the shrapnel cuts a fuel line :D

[Crazzy_Al]

:lol: Let's just hope that DOESN'T happen!!

[GTrackd]

could you guys drop this....
I'm starting to want a forged botom end with a 250 shot in it...
That and a stroker kit :)

[Strtracer]

JUICE..JUICE..JUICE

[GTrackd]

Did you say Juice??? (http://drewmike.file-place.com/thejuice.wav)

[Casper302]

JUICE..JUICE..JUICE


JUICE JUICE JUICE :lol:

[cobrafreak01]

Sorry I havent posted, I have been off work since the 23rd and have had no interest in even looking at a computer.

Al, check out the Nitrous Express Mustang Window switch. It is the exact same as the MSD unit but has the ability to pick up a tach signal from one of your coil packs on the positive side of one of the packs. This should be more cost effective than a tach adapter and window switch.

If you go with the Tach adapter, check out autometers adapter. Thats what I have and the install is cake. THere is a weird way you have to hook it up on the Mustangs so if you do get one let me know and I will walk you through it.

The only things I had were a bottle heater, a WOT switch, Window Switch, and a bottle pressure gauge and that was it. I never bothered with the fuel pressure safety switch as if you loose fuel pressure you will most likely just pimp the motor anyways. My car was untuned and had about four bottles through it before I had it tuned. N/A I made 300HP 295LB TQ, on the bottle I jumped to 390HP 436LB TQ.

With a 100 wet shot you can plan to see about 90HP at the wheels with a NX system, thats what mine made and thats what most others make with the same system.

Good luck on your kit assembly.

Oh yeah and Chuch. you can eat it!

[Crazzy_Al]

Sorry I havent posted, I have been off work since the 23rd and have had no interest in even looking at a computer.

Al, check out the Nitrous Express Mustang Window switch. It is the exact same as the MSD unit but has the ability to pick up a tach signal from one of your coil packs on the positive side of one of the packs. This should be more cost effective than a tach adapter and window switch.

If you go with the Tach adapter, check out autometers adapter. Thats what I have and the install is cake. THere is a weird way you have to hook it up on the Mustangs so if you do get one let me know and I will walk you through it.

The only things I had were a bottle heater, a WOT switch, Window Switch, and a bottle pressure gauge and that was it. I never bothered with the fuel pressure safety switch as if you loose fuel pressure you will most likely just pimp the motor anyways. My car was untuned and had about four bottles through it before I had it tuned. N/A I made 300HP 295LB TQ, on the bottle I jumped to 390HP 436LB TQ.

With a 100 wet shot you can plan to see about 90HP at the wheels with a NX system, thats what mine made and thats what most others make with the same system.

Good luck on your kit assembly.

Oh yeah and Chuch. you can eat it!

Thanks for all the info Jamie. I picked the kit up tonight and it looks like it has basically everything that would come with it...minus a wire or small piece or two and the directions. I plan to spray 125 shot...if Lidio thinks that's a good idea. When I called he was all for it and had no problem with it. I'll probably be at Ramchargers this weekend looking for the other items I posted and the ones you mentioned. Thanks again.

[Puma]

Hey Al, are you planning a fuel system upgrade?? I know nitrous but never sprayed a 4.6, is the factory system up to the task? Is it a returnless system? If its a wet kit are you going to have a way to adjust fuel pressure?

[Puma]

Dont forget to go one step colder plug, I like the NGK V-power.

[cobrafreak01]

Dont forget to go one step colder plug, I like the NGK V-power.

I would strongly advise the NGK Irridiums. I had the V gaps and stepped up to the irridiums, they are much better in my opinion. You will want to step down to a one stage colder plug.

[Crazzy_Al]

I would strongly advise the NGK Irridiums. I had the V gaps and stepped up to the irridiums, they are much better in my opinion. You will want to step down to a one stage colder plug.

I'll do that. Thanks.

[ReiKo]

Al whatever you need keep asking... Sorry I haven't posted in here but keep asking and we will keep answering... Take it from all of us... No cheap route in this hobby....

[Crazzy_Al]

I would strongly advise the NGK Irridiums. I had the V gaps and stepped up to the irridiums, they are much better in my opinion. You will want to step down to a one stage colder plug.

What should I gap them at?

[cobrafreak01]

What should I gap them at?

Mine are at 32

[Crazzy_Al]

Mine are at 32

Thanks. :cheers: